Heatherlea Tour Report: Catalonia birds and butterflies

Heatherlea Tour Report Catalonia Birds and Butterflies

Mid-May saw myself and fellow tour guide John Muddemann leading a tour for the Scottish company Heatherlea. Spain for birds and butterflies was fully booked with 12 participants, all eager to get to grips with some of the birdlife and Lepidopterae of the Catalan countryside

Here is not the place to forward too many details of how the tour went, as you can read it here HEATHERLEA TRIP REPORT – Spain, Birds & Butterflies May 2023 (2).

Catalonia birds and butterflies tour group

Catalonia birds and butterflies tour group

Suffice to say, we saw a lot of interesting birds at what is probably the best time of year for seeing the maximum variety of birds that Catalonia can offer. Icterine Warbler, Red-footed Falcon, Black Vulture, Bonelli’s Eagle, Lammergeier, Citril Finch, Little Bustard, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Eagle Owl .. and the list goes on. What’s more, we visited wetlands, drylands, high mountains in the Pyrenees, mid-mountain Mediterranean ranges and what we could find in-between! 

Butterflies were scarce, firstly because of the cold weather we experienced in the Pyrenees, but mainly because of the ongoing drought that Catalonia, as most of Spain, has been going through for the last two years. Nevertheless, we had a good couple of mornings when the sun shone and the wind fell, which you can see reflected in the report. We all enjoyed the experience and the company, and for me it was a pleasure to work with such a knowledgeable co-leader as John. 

Next year we will be leading another tour for Heatherlea – Spain in early Spring – plugging into our in-depth knowledge of northeastern Spain, seeking out Wallcreepers, Lammergeiers and a whole lot of birds that can be seen in March. Click on the link below to check it out. 

Wallcreeper in flight

Wallcreeper in flight


Trip report Extremadura – Gredos April 2023

Kath and Mick Claydon’s Trip Report Extremadura – Gredos April 2023

Trip Report Extremadura-Gredos 23

Walking with the lavender
Walking with the lavender, Extremadura

In the link above you can click on the trip report, written entirely by Kath Claydon, of her and husband Mick’s private tour with Birding In Spain in April of this year.

This was our third birding tour together, after our initial one in Cantabria and Asturias in 2017, followed by Navarra and Aragón in 2022.

Now, almost five months after their tour, what do I recall most vivdly? Well, I guess it must be the early mornings: on the plains of Cáceres watching Great and Little Bustards, and excitedly scanning the skies to try and locate the Pin-tailed and Black-bellied Sandgrouse we could hear in flight; the morning in the Sierra de Gredos watching the comings and goings of a pair of White-throated Dippers under an old stone bridge; getting glimpses of tail-cocked Bluethroats who were giving us a run for our money; watching the Otter swimming up to the tail of the Alcollarín reservoir, and just a little later spotting an immaculate Pied Flycatcher in the trees that provided shade for our picnic.

Our lovely secluded hotel in the Sierra de Gredos
Our lovely secluded birding hotel in the Sierra de Gredos

In truth there are too many things to remember them vividly, especially if you’re a bird guide like myself who is in his third decade of leading bird tours around Spain. I do remember the satisfaction of happy travellers though, their good, easy company, much telling of tales, and a few laughs around a drink or two.

Anyway, I digress. Just click on the link to the report above and enjoy the read!

Some payback from playback?

So what’s the situation with playback to attract birds in Spain?

Using playback with bird calls – yes? No? How?

Recently we received a respectful enquiry into the use of playback to attract birds to the observer in Spain. This is the answer we gave (with some light editing for public viewing):

I’m not sure if anything specific has been legislated about playback that doesn’t pertain to the category of “disturbance of protected species” and “protected areas”. Basically if a countryside warden or police officer can consider that you are bothering or causing disturbance to a protected species then you could be in trouble.

Mind you, I’ve had a couple of run-ins with over-zealous countryside wardens who were attempting to vilify me on completely nonsensical grounds – like just for being there with optics, and nothing at all to do with playback – and their stance went a little wobbly-kneed when they received my spirited reply founded mostly on common sense.

You would probably not be in a position to do the same, so I would err on the side of caution: do not use playback for rare or known protected species (I would never use it for Eagle Owl, Dupont’s Lark, for example and very rarely for any other nocturnal species, if at all these days). Common warblers such as Sardinian or Western Bonelli’s would probably be OK in my opinion, Firecrest (they respond so well!), Treecreepers, but then my opinion is not the law, and has less weight than that of an agitated countryside warden.

Another important point: I would not use playback for any bird that I think any other birder will do or would have done the same to. So if you’re chasing someone else’s bird – a specific bird that may have been targeted before you – don’t use playback.

Attracting birds with bird call apps

Attracting birds with bird call apps

There are recommendations that can be found about how to use playback “within reason”, which generally reflect on the observer’s experience, knowledge and respect for the bird.

For example:

  • Don’t use “ghetto-blasters” on playback loop
  • Don’t use playback loop at any volume – use selected sections of the song or call only
  • Position yourself strategically and use a “bird-like” volume
  • If it doesn’t work after a brief period of trying move on, and let the bird have its life back

If you would like to read more about the use of birdcall playback apps and the like in the field this article at Audubon, adapted from the original by David Allan Sibley is worth reading.

How’s the Lammergeier doing in the Pyrenees?

Recent trends of the Lammergeier – Bearded Vulture – population in Catalonia, Spain

The Lammergeier, or Bearded Vulture, Gypaetus barbatus, is one of Europe’s most endangered bird species. At the beginning of the 20th Century in Catalonia (northeast Spain) the Lammergeier was present in the Pyrenees and the Ports of Tortosa, in the south. Due mostly to direct persecution it soon disappeared from the Ports and, at the same time, there was a serious decline in the population of the Pyrenees, regressing from east to west. At the beginning of the 1980s there were only five or six pairs remaining in the western “comarques” of Catalonia.

Lammergeier in flight

Lammergeier, or Bearded Vulture, in flight over the Pyrenees

Then the Lammergeier started a slow recovery. In 2013 42 Lammergeier territories were identified with 84 adults across the Pyrenees of Catalonia and into the Pre-Pyrenees. Currently there are 48 Lammergeier territories in the Pyrenees of Catalonia, which represents 33% of the total for the whole of the Pyrenees (Spain, France and Andorra).

The main factors in the Lammergeier’s decline were poisoning, hunting, electrocution and egg-stealing. On the other side of the coin, the Lammergeier’s recent cautious recovery can at least in part be attributed to increased legal protection and to the contribution of supplementary feeding stations which have appeared in the last two decades in the Pyrenees and Pre-Pyrenees.

Nevertheless, there is still cause for concern from mortality factors such as poisoning, collision with electric cables, and lead poisoning deriving from the bullets used in hunting.

There is an ongoing Lammergeier captive breeding scheme, which has led to a number of birds being released in Andalusia, the Maestrazgo (both regions of Spain), and in the Grands Causses in France.

The Lammergeier is included in Annexe 1 of the Community Directive 79/409/EEC on birds.

Lammergeier in flight

Lammergeier, or Bearded Vulture, in flight over the Pyrenees

Click the following link for a visual summary of the Lammergeier’s status in Catalonia:


Why it shouldn’t happen to a guide…

Once upon a time there was a birder who…

Birding in a group

Birding in a group with a guide


Now, I’ll try to be nice about this all. After all, the vast majority of clients and visitors are a pleasure to be with and to guide, and those very few who break the protocol are not likely to pay much attention to my postulations. Nevertheless. 

There are certain things which are better not to do when out in the field as part of a group with a guide.

1. Walk in front of the guide continuously when looking for birds. You may well have good eyesight and hearing and be capable of identifying the birds and pointing them out to other people. That’s something the guide does, it’s his or her professional occupation. Taking the reins in this way without a nod from the guide is like a student standing up in front of the class and saying “Hey, I know this lesson”, walking to the front, and commandeering the blackboard from the teacher.

The guide, however, usually knows more than that: he* will have a good idea if a certain bird seen flying away is worth pointing out (some people might not be fast enough to get on to it; the bird may be about to disappear in two seconds, there may be better chances with better views later on, etc); he may be planning to draw the group’s attention to something more interesting; your approach may scare some of the birds the group was hoping to encounter.

2. Slam the doors when exiting the vehicle. If the guide has had the skill and fortune to stop the vehicle at a distance from an interesting bird and considers that the best option for the group is to get out for everyone to get good views please don’t slam the doors! Bim! Bam! And the bird has flown.

3. Spend forever fiddling with your stuff every time the group exits the vehicle. The group can only move as fast as its slowest member. Not only that, the group is temporarily guideless while he is waiting for you to get your stuff together so he can lock the vehicle and turn his attention to helping everyone see the bird. If a quick exit may be called for and your stuff is in the backpack – take it out beforehand or just grab the backpack.

4. Ignore the guide’s indications when he’s pointing out a bird that you can’t see. A bird in a bush can be still or moving, but is usually pretty small. As a guide I’ve had some people who will strain their eyes trying to spot the bird in a well-indicated bush, wobbling their heads like a Burrowing Owl, without raising their binoculars, despite urging them to do so. So, please, when the guide says “raise your binoculars” understand that he’s giving you good advice, and do so.

Guide and birder

Look! Over there! the guide indicates, and the birder looks.

5. On a more humorous note, “12 o’clock” is the view in front of the van, and not in front of you when you are looking out the side window!

6. If the guide is looking, pointing or giving verbal indications then make the effort to listen and to look in the same direction as he is pointing (you’d be surprised!).

7. If there’s a queue behind you for a look at the bird in the guide’s scope please give some kind of indication if you can’t actually see the bird. People peering down the scope for a minute or more, and saying nothing because they see nothing can be quite frustrating! If you inform the guide that you cannot see the bird then he will be in a position to do something about it.

8. Put your eye to the scope, not your hand! You can’t see anything through the scope with your hand, and you may jog it out of place.

9. Make sure that you drink enough water. In Spain the most common field ailments suffered by visitors tend to derive from dehydration.

10. Please keep rustling of cagoules and the like to a minimum! This is especially important when the guide is trying to locate a bird through listening for its call or song.

11. While you’re free to dress as you like in the field, and nobody expects you to wear full camouflage gear on a normal birding tour, do you really need to wear a dazzling white shirt or blouse every day?

12. When at close range to a bird it is best to avoid rapid movements (ie raise your binoculars slowly) and, in particular, marked pointing. A bird can tell when it’s the centre of attention, and it usually won’t like it.

13. If your guide tells you that it’s perfectly safe to drink the tap water, and if you normally drink the tap water back home in Oregon or Hampshire or wherever you live, then believe him.

14. Do let it be known to the guide if you are in dire need of a convenience stop. In Spain a toilet break is often synonymous with a coffee break, so he won’t mind!

15. My own particular sin: I have been known to “shush” people when I hear or see something exciting, sometimes without the proper decorum. Please overlook this, don’t get offended, as it’s the bird that comes first on such occasions!

16. I once asked the only lady in a group of 4 clients if she could run back to the vehicle and grab the scope while I kept eyes on a bird we were all interested in seeing. It probably occurred to her to think “why me?”, and let me tell you this: she was the youngest and the fittest of the group, that’s why. There is no room on our tours for racial or sexual discrimination of any kind, and thankfully it is something I have rarely encountered on a bird tour.

Summer birding

Birding in a group with a guide in the summer

* Can I just use “he” to make things simpler, on the understanding that there are both male and female guides, please?

That all being said, the vast majority of you have got things pretty much under control. Well done, and thanks!

BREAKING NEWS! Superb Iceland Tour for June 2024

Iceland Tour June 2024

Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland
Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland

We love Iceland! A midsummer birding tour to Iceland is about some special birds, but so much more…

Iceland is unforgettable scenery, relaxed people, humpback whales, arctic foxes, seals, good hotels, good food, easygoing, and of course, birds.

Gyrfalcon is one of the special birds we hope to see in Iceland

We’ve already booked or planned some of the best hotels and experiences that such a tour can offer. Whale-watching, the ferry to pretty Flatey Island, the domestic flight from Akureyri to Reykjavik to save a tiresome return journey …

And the hotels. Our personal favourite is Fransiskus, in what is known as the prettiest town in Iceland, Stykkisholmur.

We’ll be holding an online meeting to explain more about this tour, with greetings from some of the hotel propriety, the crew of the Hauganes Whale-watching experience, and more.

Come join us, without compromise, to see and hear a bit more about this tour that you and your partner really shouldn’t miss.

Somewhere in Iceland

Online meeting date to be announced soon!

The Lesser Grey Shrike – “technically extinct” in Spain

Extinction is not a nice thing

2023: The Lesser Grey Shrike is technically extinct in Lleida, Catalonia, and therefore in all of Spain.

Lesser Grey Shrike

Lesser Grey Shrike – image taken from the Atlas of Breeding Birds in Catalonia 1999-2002

This year no adult bird returned to the hitherto last remaining breeding site in Spain – on the edge of the city of Lleida in Catalonia – from its lengthy northward migration from its wintering quarters in the Kalahari.

Nevertheless, numerous captive bred birds were still released as juveniles, as part of the ongoing captive breeding scheme which has been taking place here since 2007.

However, with nothing other than instinct to lead them on their migrations; with no adult birds to follow, emulate or to compete with; and with modern-day factors giving rise to declines in both breeding areas and wintering sites, what chance do the newly-released juveniles have of re-establishing a sustainable breeding population?

Maybe the time has come to throw in the towel. What do you think?

Here’s a brief reverse chronology of the Lesser Grey Shrike’s decline in Spain in the last couple of decades.

2023: No returning adult, captive-bred juveniles released

2022: A single adult returned

2020: A total of 13 birds returned to the site near Lleida. 15 free-flying chicks hatched in Lleida from 4 breeding pairs. 10 of these fledged successfully.  74 chicks were bred in captivity.

2019: A total of 5 birds returned. A single breeding pair fledged 3 young.

2018: 0 -1 breeding pairs detected.

2015: 7 birds returned, 4 of these were captive-bred birds released the previous year. No free-flying chicks fledged. A record 102 captive-bred birds were released. Geolocators were attached to 34 birds.

2010: The species becomes extinct in the neighbouring province of Huesca.

2009: Captive-bred birds are released for the first time.

2007: The captive breeding programme was initiated.

2002: The breeding population of Empordà in the province of Girona becomes extinct.

1999: A previously-undiscovered population of breeding birds is discovered in the course of the fieldwork for the Catalan Breeding Bird Atlas 1999-2002. This site, on the outskirts of Lleida city, will become the last remaining site for the species in the whole of Spain in little more than a decade.

1980’s: Approximately 40 breeding pairs present in northeast Spain

Distribution of Lesser Grey Shrike in Catalonia in 1999-2002

Lesser Grey Shrike, Catalonia, 1999-2002

The reasons for this decline are attributed to climate change affecting rainfall patterns in the species’ wintering area; agricultural intensification and loss of habitat in its breeding quarters; insecticides; trapping in mistnets along its migration route; and heavy egg and chick predation by the Magpie.

Summer birding

Summer birding
Oh well, oh well, oh well…

Summer birding had me a blast

Summer birding birds coming fast

I saw some birds brand new for me

In Catalonia, good as can be

Summer days drifting away

To-ah! Oh, the summer nights

Well-a, well-a, well-a, huh

Tell me more, tell me more

Did you go very far?

Tell me more, tell me more

Was it hot in the car?

“Summer birding” lyrics adapted from, well, you know, surely.

Was it hot in the car? No, thanks to the air-conditioning. But it certainly was hot outside at times!

Summer birding in Catalonia, as in other parts of Spain, can be a challenge. With maximum temperatures hovering around 40ºC, and sometimes more, with many birds having dispersed away from their breeding territories, with those that have stayed being quite inactive to cope with the heat, the dust, the haze…

So why would you come birding in the summer and, if you do, how to go about looking for some of the birds that you want to see?

Why? Well, if you’re like Donna from Canada who could only come for a week in July, that’s a good reason. There are still a lot of good birds you can see that you won’t see if you don’t come!

How? Get up early and be ready for first light. Then plan your route carefully, with knowledge of what birds you might see, where to find them, how to best connect the locations without spending too much time travelling, and then perhaps end the birding day by early afternoon, preferably somewhere shady if you can.

So, Donna came for a spot of summer birding and, in her own words, it looks like she had a good time:

Dear Steve (and Florinda!):

I couldn’t have asked for or wanted a better guide.  Everything was absolutely perfect and I would not have changed a thing.  You made this trip one I will always remember.  Finding so many birds for me to look at and enjoy.  Sighting rarities that were amazing.  You are truly the best.  And all these findings in the last week of July.

I had so much fun.  Trying new food, enjoying perfect accommodations, shopping for an adapter and a new suitcase.  You went well beyond your duty as a bird guide. 

I now buy only olive oil from Spain.  I made Spanish Gazpacho.  I rub ripe tomatoes on my bread.  I learned so much more than just birds from you and I am grateful.

Catalonia’s scenery is breathtaking and I feel that I saw so much of what it had to offer.  The Delta, the grasslands, the hills, the orchards, and the farmlands. 

I could never thank you enough for such a wonderful experience.

Thank you Donna! It’s satisfaction like that which keeps us going, through the quiet periods, and the busy ones!

We started and finished at Barcelona; first birding in the Ebro Delta, and from there went on to Lleida. Lleida has the dryland plains, interesting farmland, birds of gallery woodland and inland wetalnds, and the foothills of the Pyrenees. There was plenty for us to do and birds to find in the five days. Rollers, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Bee-eaters, Little Owl, Montagu’s Harrier, Bee-eaters, Black-eared Wheatear, Hoopoes, Booted Eagles, Short-toed Eagles, Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, Purple Swamphen, Egyptian Vulture, …

Donna took quite a few photos too.

European Bee-eater by Donna.
European Roller by Donna.
Squacco Heron by Donna.

And there are plenty more bird photos where they came from!

Birding In Spain’s November is Wallcreeper month tours 2023

Wallcreepers again!

        November is Wallcreeper Month tour

After last year’s runaway success (6 wallcreepers on one tour, 4 on another; more than 100 species on both 4-day tours) we are giving you – the keen birder – another chance if you missed this superb tour the first time round. Our advice: don’t miss it!

We’ve changed the itinerary of the Wallcreeper Tour a little, adding an extra day to take in some great birding in the Ebro Delta. That means there’ll be even more birds to look forward to!

Take note of the November is Wallcreeper Month tour dates:
1. Tour 1 November 5th to November 9th
2. Tour 2 November 12th to November 16th

See all the details, including the price, by clicking November wallcreeper month tour info 2023.

Spring 2023 reports 4: Pallid Swifts, Little Bustards and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse

Jacob and Daniel – two keen and well-traveled birders from the USA –  contacted us at short notice for 3 days of birding between Barcelona and Lleida.

They were wise, and took our advice (Hey – we’re Birding In Spain and we know a fair bit about the birds in Spain – we’ve been creating, organizing and leading birding tours here since the last millenium; and we live here), so we had one day around Barcelona and almost two days around Lleida.

Birds of Barcelona – Pallid Swift, Little Tern, Whiskered Tern, Little Bittern, Blue Rock Thrush, Audouin’s Gull, Iberian Green Woodpecker, Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Western Subalpine Warbler, Dartford Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Pied Flycatcher …

Western Subalpine Warbler

Birds of Lleida day 1: Red-footed Falcon, Little Bustard, Roller, Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Montagu’s Harrier, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Little Owl, Eurasian Hobby, Golden Oriole, Western Orphean Warbler, Red-rumped Swallow, Sardinian Warbler …

Red-footed Falcon in flight

Great Spotted Cuckoo – noisy!

Birds of Lleida day 2: Eagle Owl, Black-eared Wheatear, Tawny Pipit, Rock Sparrow, Red-billed Chough, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Penduline Tit, Turtle Dove… then it was time to take the early afternoon train back to Barcelona from Lleida.

Eagle Owl on perch

It was quite an intense 3-day birding tour, but an incredibly successful one too!

  • Note: all photos worked from originals by Dave Bassey
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